I first tasted the Murrieta wines on the occasion of the 170th anniversary release of a special library release: a vertical of six of the Reserva wines from 2012-2017, along with the flagship Gran Reserva Ygay and the 2018 Reserva release. This was in late 2022 or early 2023. I was so impressed I purchased the box set 2012-17 vertical along with a few bottles of the 2018 with the intention of revisiting them in a couple of years.
The origin of Marqués de Murrieta winery extends to the origins of Rioja. Don Luciano Murrieta, originally born in Peru, applying techniques learned in Bordeaux, made the first oak-influenced Rioja wine in 1852.
Don Luciano’s vision from the beginning was to create a fine Rioja wine with a great ageing potential and start exporting it outside of Spain. He shipped his first vintage, with the legendary 1852, to countries such as Mexico and Cuba, making it the first fine Rioja wine to be exported.
In 1983 the winery changed hands from its founding family to Vicente Cebrian, an entrepreneur and winery owner from Galicia in NW Spain. He died in 1996 and his 26 year old son also named Vicente, took over the estate. He spent nearly a quarter of a century and more than $30 million restoring and improving the property and its wines. Thanks to its historical significance to the world of wine, its heritage and the architecture of the building itself, the Castillo de Ygay, the head-quarters of Marqués de Murrieta, was declared a museum in 2019.
The major renovation project at Marqués de Murrieta was completed with the inauguration in 2021 of new winemaking facilities, a complex of buildings with more than 25,000 square meters, built next to the Castillo de Ygay. This spacious building is equipped with the latest technology and is considered one of the most avant-garde wineries in the world. More than 50,000 square metres of gardens make it an idyllic setting. The winery is now fully modernised while remaining true to its roots and ready to continue crafting the finest possible wines.
Murrieta is once again one of the key leaders in Rioja, thanks to the passion, talent and investment of Vicente. His sister Cristina handles financial and administrative duties and Maria Vargas who had just graduated from university and was working in the winery laboratory took over winemaking duties.
All the wines are made from grapes grown in the 300 hectare vineyard that surrounds the winery in the Rioja Alta region, known as the Ygay Estate. The winery produces five wines. The Reserva consistently earns high ratings and is considered top value. Castillo Ygay in the flagship bottling, a Gran Reserva sourced from one 40 hectare plot made from mostly Tempranillo with some Mazuelo and aged in French oak. It is matured for a decade in the winery cellar before release.
As I mentioned in the introduction, I first tasted an anniversary of six of the Reserva wines from 2012-2017, about three years ago and had purchased the set along with the 2018 then current release to revisit them with friends.
Accordingly, for the wineinsights June tasting event we had another look at the Reserva wines from 2012-18 inclusive. It was an excellent tasting, and all but one of the wines showed well. Unfortunately the 2013 was affected by TCA, less noticeable initially on opening but after pouring became much worse. Even so, earlier on, despite this it was possible to get a glimpse of the great wine it would have been if the cork had been sound.
Grapes for the Reserva wines are hand harvested, de-stemmed and fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks for 8-10 days with both pump overs and plunging to extract colour and flavour before pressing and racking to American oak barrels for aging, typically averaging 20 months.
The 2018 vintage experienced a cool growing season with ample rainfall leading to a later than usual harvest. The wine was very aromatic, less structured, but with greater freshness and subtler balance. One or two tasters commented on the higher acidity. Bright ruby red in the glass, with aromas of plum, red cherry, olive and tobacco. On the palate medium-bodied with juicy acidity, silky tannins and red fruit flavours with some spicy oak, and a long finish, this was a personal favourite. 86% Tempranillo, 8% Graciano, 4% Mazuelo and 2% Garnacha.
The 2017 vintage was a warmer vintage with a relatively early harvest. The wine was a bigger, riper and more alcoholic wine than the 2018, ruby red in the glass with a garnet edge. It displayed red & black fruit aromas, with spice and dark chocolate notes, and on the plate was rich, round full bodies and long with silky tannins. 83% Tempranillo, 9% Graciano, 6% Mazuelo and 2% Garnacha.
The 2016 vintage was a normal to late vintage and the wine saw a reduced time in oak – just 16 months. Ruby red in the glass with a garnet rim, displaying aromas of ripe red and black fruits, dried herbs and oak spice. On the palate very ripe and dense, with fine but still firm tannins, dark fruit with some spice and balsamic notes, layered and long. 87% Tempranillo, 6% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo and 2% Garnacha.
The 2015 was a favourite for some. Ruby red in the glass with ripe red berry and plum flavours with some dried fruit character coming through along with some smoky tobacco and spice elements. On the palate medium-bodied, plum raisin and raspberry flavours with a long fruity silky finish. 80% Tempranillo, 12% Graciano, 6% Mazuelo and 2% Garnacha.
2014 was a challenging vintage with cool Atlantic weather conditions. Ruby red with a garnet rim, it displayed more floral aromas along with ripe berries and some lactic notes. On the palate it was medium bodied, cherry fruited with soft silky tannins that were slightly drying on the finish. 84% Tempranillo, 9% Graciano, 5%% Mazuelo and 2% Garnacha.
Our solitary bottle of the 2013 was TCA affected. From a challenging vintage, it was cherry garnet in the glass. Critics comment on the unusual character of the wine with some green notes and citrus-like acidity which some liked and others didn’t. 83% Tempranillo, 9% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo and 3% Garnacha, like the 2016 just 16 months in oak.
Our 2012 was the clear favourite of the tasting. From an earlier harvest, the wine had much higher proportions of Garnacha and saw longer in oak – 23 months. Cherry garnet red in the glass with aromas of black cherry, blackberry and cassis, and notes of cinnamon-spiced oak. On the palate beautifully balanced with rich round dark fruits tinged with softly spicy oak, silky tannins, lively acidity and a long harmonious finish. 77% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha, 8% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo.
A truly excellent tasting that confirms Marques de Murrieta deserve their reputation as Rioja “royalty”.
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