wineinsights

Martinborough is best known for Pinot Noir, but the wider Martinborough Wellington wine region offers a far wider range of styles and cellar‑door experiences than many visitors realise. The district is shaped by four distinct sub‑regions: the Martinborough Terrace, with its free‑draining gravel and classic, structured Pinot Noir; Te Muna Road, where cooler, wind‑exposed terraces produce more aromatic and finely textured styles; Lake Ferry Road where more exposed  sites and deeper more consistently clay soils give more linear red-fruited and floral styles; and Dry River Road where vineyards sit on warm elevated north-facing hillsides with soils composed of silty clay loams deeply infused with ancient marine sediment and limestone, leading to more opulent dark-fruited styles.

Elephant Hill began with a restored Jaguar and has grown into one of Hawke’s Bay’s most ambitious wineries — uniting striking architecture, meticulous winemaking, and a terroir‑driven vision shaped across Te Awanga, Bridge Pa, and the Gimblett Gravels.

As I mentioned in A Wine Lover’s Progress, my return to New Zealand in 2015 after years in Asia marked the beginning of a much deeper engagement with the world of wine than I could ever have predicted. Among the many influences that shaped that journey, none proved more pivotal than my encounter with Michael Hutton, owner with his wife Katie, of Wineseeker — the specialist wine shop on the corner of Wakefield and Victoria Streets that I happened to pass one May afternoon.

Every week I spend time with people who come to wine not for intoxication, but for flavour, connection, and culture. They come because wine gives them a way to explore the world through their senses — to taste landscapes, histories, and decisions. They want to understand why a vineyard faces a certain way, why a family grows the grapes they do, why a wine tastes like the landscape it comes from. They lean in when I pour something unfamiliar. They compare aromas, search for words, and discover that flavour isn’t just chemistry; it’s farming, climate, soil, people, and time. And every week, while I watch people open themselves to that richness, I also watch the public conversation about alcohol become more distorted, more absolutist, and more hostile. What makes me mad is not that public‑health agencies warn about risk — they should. What makes me mad is when they ignore newer evidence, flatten nuance, and cling to outdated conclusions because they fit a narrative. I wrote more generally about this a few weeks ago, but the latest barrage of headlines inspired this closer look behind them.

From tropical monsoon vineyards to frozen northern plateaus, wine is now being grown in places once thought impossible. This article explores how climate, ambition and adaptation are reshaping the edges of the wine world — and what that means for the regions caught between expansion and retreat.

An exploration of Western Sicily centred on Planeta’s Ulmo estate — its landscape, history, biodiversity and cultural depth — culminating in a tasting that spans the island from Etna to Noto, Vittoria to Capo Milazzo. It offers a reflective introduction to Sicily’s complexity and lays the foundation for deeper study in the future.