New Zealand’s Best 2014 Bordeaux Blends Meet a St Julien Classic

A spectacular lineup

To explore that, I assembled ten of the country’s most ambitious wines from the vintage — six from Hawke’s Bay, three from Waiheke Island, and one from Clevedon — and set them against Château Léoville Barton, a reference point for classical Cabernet structure. For contrast, and to widen the Southern Hemisphere frame, I added Penfolds Bin 407 from South Australia, a wine that has long defined a different stylistic path for Cabernet Sauvignon.

This tasting wasn’t about hierarchy or imitation. It was about context: understanding where New Zealand’s finest 2014 blends sit stylistically, texturally, and emotionally when tasted beside a château that has shaped expectations for generations, and a modern Australian benchmark that speaks with a very different accent. What followed was a fascinating study in identity and evolution — a snapshot of a vintage, a country, and a set of producers continuing to refine what New Zealand Bordeaux blends can be.

Of the twelve wines listed below, two were purchased at auction, with best endeavours to ensure good provenance: the Man of War Tytti Kulta, and the Chateau Leoville Barton. Two were from the cellar of a friend and regular tasting participant: Craggy Range Sophia and Stonyridge Larose. The Elephant Hill Hieronymus was a library purchase from the vineyard. I purchased all of the other wines on or near release and stored in my personal cellar.

I determined the tasting order based on an initial assessment of palate weight from lesser to greater, after decanting the wines 4-5 hours before the tasting into plain bottles with the first wine selected as a “neutral” representative of the lineup. All the wines showed well on this first appraisal and the subsequent tasting consensus supported this conclusion. The wines were tasted blind, first alone, and then with lunch –medium rare sirloin roast with new minted potatoes, green beans and salad. Following evaluation, participants voted favourite and second favourite wine and gave opinions on whether the wine was Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot dominant, and was from Waiheke/Clevedon, Hawkes Bay, Bordeaux or South Australia.

Wine decanted into plain bottles and ordered for blind tasting

The first paragraph of each of the following notes represents the winemaking and intended or reputed style. The second paragraphs provide my personal tasting notes with occasional commentary about the reactions of other tasting participants.

Tantalus Écluse Reserve 2014 — Waiheke Island

Cabernet Sauvignon 58%, Merlot 28%, Cabernet Franc 10%, Malbec 5%
Estate‑grown; hand‑sorted; small‑lot ferments; 11 months in French oak (100% new). A refined, architectural style with lifted aromatics. Under cork.

Deep ruby in the glass, with a fragrant nose of violets, cassis, cedar and a slight hint of bay leaf. On the palate quite elegant with medium body, ripe blackcurrant and dark plum fruit, a little licorice, grilled red capsicum and cigar box. The acidity is fresh but nicely balanced with the fine chalky tannins, the finish is long and dry. Not a big wine but a nice introduction to the lineup with all of the desired elements at least present and no obvious fault, it was notably better with food. Ready now

Man O’ War Tytti Kulta 2014 — Waiheke Island

Cabernet Sauvignon 39%, Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc 25%, Petit Verdot 6%, Malbec 1%
Sourced from multiple hillside blocks; small‑batch ferments; 20+ months in French oak (60% new). Concentrated, dark‑fruited, and structured with a layered finish. The higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon was a departure from the usual, more right-bank prominence of Cabernet Franc. Screwcap.

Deep ruby in the glass with quite powerful aromas of dark cherry, cassis, tobacco and spice with an initial edge of coastal herbs, that dissipated after pouring. The palate is medium bodied with blackcurrant, plum and cherry fruits, tobacco, spice and bitter chocolate, the finish is long and structured with a firm acid spine and fine tannins.

Elephant Hill Hieronymus 2014 — Hawke’s Bay

46% Merlot 25, 44% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon                                                                                                         

Sourced 90% from Triangle Vineyard in Bridge Pa and 10% Gimblett; hand‑sorted; Merlot & Malbec co-fermented, long, gentle extraction; 26 months in French oak (67% new). Polished, modern, and textural.

Dark ruby with aromas of Doris plum, blackberry, clove, mocha and a hint of Chinese five spice. On the palate medium to full-bodied with a firm acid spine and still firm but fine tannins framing sweet dark berry fruit, licorice and meat pan flavours. The finish was long and complex. Under cork.

Initial appraisal at the back table

Craggy Range Sophia 2014 — Gimblett Gravels

Merlot 61%, Cabernet Franc 20%, Cabernet Sauvignon 19%
Merlot‑led Right Bank styling; individual parcels fermented separately; 19 months in French oak (60% new). Plush mid‑palate with fine, chalky tannins. Under cork.

Deep ruby in the glass with some attractive florals overlaying ripe plum and blackberry fruit with cedary oak and baking spices. On the palate it was just a little leaner than I expected, having tasted younger versions, medium-bodied with black and blue fruit flavours, vanilla, baking spice and some earthiness. The tannins are quite fine and polished, the acidity providing freshness on the finish.

Vidal Legacy Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 — Gimblett Gravels

Cabernet Sauvignon 100%
Hand‑picked from Omahu Gravels, small‑lot ferments; meticulous sorting; 20 months in French oak (50% new). Known for precision and purity rather than sheer weight. Screwcap.

Dark ruby in the glass with fragrant aromas of rose, cassis, dried herbs, pencil shavings, tobacco and mocha. On the palate combining ripe fruit with a distinct minerality, plum, mocha, and dried herbs framed by fresh acidity and fine yet still assertive tannins, elegant, medium bodied and long with that distinct fresh lift I always associate with the red wines of Hugh Crichton. Unmistakably Cabernet to all participants, those who preferred the more plush, later and often Merlot dominant, wines did appreciate how well this accompanied the sirloin.  One participant’s favourite wine, another’s second favourite.

Sacred Hill Helmsman 2014 — Hawke’s Bay

54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc                                                                                             

Gimblett Gravels fruit; small‑batch ferments; 20 months in French oak (50% new). A more restrained, classical style with fine tannin detail. Under cork.

Dark ruby in the glass. Aromas of sour cherries and herbs giving way to cassis and berry, spice and cedar touched with some sous-bois. Medium-bodied on the palate with fresh acidity and firm tannins framing dark fruits but with that sour cherry edge and slight herbaceousness. For me, not quite living up to its reputation or some of the reviews, but it was one person’s favourite and the second favourite of two. Again, much more enjoyable with the food.

Te Mata Coleraine 2014 — Hawke’s Bay

60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc
Hand‑harvested from Havelock Hills; traditional Bordeaux vinification; 17 months in French oak (70% new). A classical, structural expression with emphasis on purity and line. Under cork (Diam)

Up to this point I had enjoyed all the wines but this was my first "wow!" Deep ruby in the glass and beautifully fragrant, violets, roses, cassis, cigar box and dried herbs virtually sing in harmony! On the palate, a step up from the previous in concentration and weight with a silky entry and mouth filling richness, blackberry, cassis, dark cherry and cedar spice flavours supported with beautifully balanced acidity, the tannins still firm but so fine, the finish intense, long and lingering. My second favourite of the lineup, I so much prefer how it is drinking now compared with the 2013. Three participants rated this their favourite wine.

Château Léoville Barton 2014 — St‑Julien

83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc
Classic Left Bank vinification; 18 months in French oak (60% new). A model of Médoc purity, structure, and restraint in 2014.

Ruby purple in the glass with distinct aromas of cassis, pencil shavings, cedar and a faint whiff of violets. Not as fragrant as the Coleraine but still lovely. On the palate, another Wow! That classic Bordeaux depth yet lightness! Rich cassis and black cherry fruit, bitter chocolate with a subtle mint, velvety tannins,  poised acidity, and oh that incredibly long and layered finish. Power and finesse, without that drying edge I found in Leoville Bartons of the previous decade. One person’s second favourite, I agonised, but gave my 2nd vote to the home fave on a whisker.  Under cork.

Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 — South Australia

100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Multi‑regional blend (Coonawarra, McLaren Vale, Barossa, Wrattonbully); matured 12 months in a mix of French and American oak (around 25–30% new). A modern, polished Cabernet with trademark Penfolds gloss. Screwcap

Purple-ruby in the glass with classic cassis, dark cherry, cedar, red capsicum and the unmistakably Australian minty eucalypt. The palate is rich and quite full bodied but the ripe fruit remains fresh, the generous black fruits lifted by notes of fresh herbs and just enough acidity, albeit a touch hard, the chalky tannins still have some grip, the American oak is still prominent but this might be one of the best 407s I’ve tried. One person’s second favourite, a few more rated it least. I’ll happily drink my remaining bottle, probably in 3-5 more years.

The second appraisal – with food, at the front table.

Stonyridge Larose 2014 — Waiheke Island

Cabernet Sauvignon 52%, Petit Verdot 18%, Malbec 16%, Merlot 12%, Cabernet Franc 1%, Carmenere 1%
Iconic Waiheke blend; low yields; meticulous sorting; long maceration; 18–24 months in French oak (high proportion new). Perfumed, ripe, and hedonistic.

Inky purple in the glass with intense aromas of dark fruits, violets, spice and (for me) just a bit too much lactony oak, as well as some savoury notes. On the palate is full-bodied with a sweet core of cassis plum and blackberry, hints of mocha, olive tapenade and again that slightly coconut-edged oak. Well structured with firm fine tannins, balanced acidity and a long complex finish.2 people’s favourite. Under cork.

Puriri Hills Pope 2014 — Clevedon

41% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Franc, 18% Carmenere, 10% Malbec                                                                                         

Inspired by Right Bank Bordeaux; long élevage (22 months) in French oak (30% new); minimal intervention; extended bottle age before release. Silky, savoury, and deeply layered. Under cork. 

Can this be my last drink? Ple-ease! Wonderfully fragrant nose of dark berries, violets, mocha chocolate, leather and spice. On the palate so rich yet fresh, flavours of dark berries, plum, leather, baking spice and dried herbs emerge in layers, the fine tannins and poised acidity frame an endless and complex finish, that wonderful mix of ripe fruit and savoury character, that perfect dance of concentration and finesse. My personal favourite, and the most voted favourite from other participants.

Church Road TOM 2014 — Hawke’s Bay

62% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon

Only produced in top vintages; hand‑picked Merlot from Gimblett Gravels, Cabernet from Bridge Pa, small‑lot ferments; extended maceration; 20 months in high‑quality French oak (74% new). Built for longevity and density. Under cork.

I want to love this wine, I DO like it, but somehow it just feels a tad clumsy. Dark ruby purple in the glass with distinct aromas of blackberries, Dawson cherries, plums, baking spice and vanilla oak. On the palate it is weightily mouth filling, plush and powerful, with perfectly ripe fruit, soft silky tannins, medium acidity – but just a bit too much oak. The finish is long and has adequate freshness, will another five years see the fruit swallow the oak?

What a wonderful tasting! With a truly great Leoville Barton – albeit from a surprisingly “ordinary” vintage in Bordeaux. And there can be no doubt that the top NZ Bordeaux blends are coming of age and really do compete, especially when you consider price, with Grand Cru Bordeaux.  The lack of extract, the green notes of earlier NZ attempts have, at least at this level, I think I can say after this (and an earlier 2013 tasting), been relegated to the past.

I’d like to dedicate this blog to Raymond Chan. Raymond was one of NZ’s foremost wine critics, but also an incredibly kind and gracious man who took me under his wing a little when I first started attending annual releases of some of the great wineries here like Te Mata and Vidal on my return to NZ in 2015. Sadly, he passed away a few years ago, but I never touch a glass of Vidal or Te Mata without remembering him with deep gratitude for his encouragement.