This tasting review explores a selection of premium New Zealand Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from celebrated producers such as Neudorf, Kumeu River, Atarangi, Pegasus Bay, and Elephant Hill. Despite the challenges posed by the 2017 vintage—including unpredictable weather and demanding growing conditions—skilled winemakers demonstrated their expertise, crafting wines that reveal both resilience and artistry. Each wine is described in terms of origin, winemaking technique, and sensory profile, highlighting the diversity and excellence of terroir-driven wines across regions like Moutere, Bannockburn, Martinborough, Waipara, and Kumeu. The summary observes both standout favourites and subtle distinctions among the labels, offering readers a window into New Zealand's evolving fine wine landscape and the triumphs achieved even in tough years.
Martinborough Wine and Food Society (MWFS) events are held on the second Friday or each month and so are not only accessible to people living in the Wairarapa, but also to Wellingtonians who weekend in Martinborough.
The MWFS September event on Friday 12th was a very successful tasting of premium New Zealand Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the difficult 2017 vintage. Such a vintage tests the mettle of the winemaker and all our wines showed well, proving them well up to the task. 22 members attended.
We had originally planned to host Jannine Rickards from Huntress Wines the previous week, but the timing clashed with the rather excellent Martinborough Jazz Festival, so we had to postpone her visit to early next year. Something exciting to look forward to!
Global warming seems to have made weather patterns increasingly unpredictable and the long, settled autumn “Indian Summer” we once took for granted, at least here in the Wairarapa, can no longer be relied upon.
The 2017 vintage began with a generally settled and warm Spring leading to excellent fruit set across the country but followed by a cool start to Summer. Mid-summer was generally warm and dry and held promise of a bounteous harvest, only to be followed by some disastrous autumn rainfall which slowed ripening and encouraged the spread of fungal diseases. Later ripening varieties were the worst affected.
As always in challenging conditions crop management becomes critical to success. Lighter crops ripened earlier and were able to be harvested before the worst downpours and canopy management was similarly crucial to mitigate the spread of powdery mildew and botrytis.
There were of course regional differences. I only comment here on those regions from which we had wines in our tasting. Auckland had a cooler and wetter Spring resulting in lower fruit set, followed by an unexceptional Summer and then Autumn deluges. Even Chardonnay showed the impact of some dilution.
Up till the end of January growers in Hawkes Bay were optimistic about a season as good as could be wished for, but again, this was followed by a miserable Autumn. Chardonnay was good but not great.
In the Wairarapa a dry Spring was followed by a mediocre Summer with intermittent drizzly rain which created perfect conditions for powdery mildew, and then heavier rain in Autumn, with the wettest April on record to date.
Nelson had a good Spring but followed by an unsettled Summer characterised by lower temperatures than normal and strong wind with reduced berry numbers on the bunches. Autumn saw a damp March and then a notably wet April.
Waipara was a little better. A frost-free Spring saw vineyards in promising condition leading up to Christmas and a dry Summer, but April again saw heavy rain. Active crop management and careful sorting after picking was important to produce quality wine and led inevitably to a reduction in quantity.
Otago was the only region to escape the miserably wet Autumn with the surrounding high mountains providing protection. However, Spring conditions were poor with cool weather leading to late flowering and frost events together with windy conditions also taking their toll. Summer was cooler than usual with strong winds, but March remained dry and while yields were low, the slow ripening was complete by harvest with rich flavour at lower-than-average sugar levels.
Our tasting included some of New Zealand’s signature Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs with the line up as follows:
Chardonnay
- Kumeu River Mates 2017 Kumeu Auckland Chardonnay
- Villa Maria Keltern 2017 Hawkes Bay Chardonnay
- Elephant Hill Salome 2017 Hawkes Bay Chardonnay
- Te Mata Elston 2017 Hawkes Bay Chardonnay
- Neudorf Moutere 2017 Nelson Chardonnay
- Carrick Bannockburn Otago 2017 Chardonnay
Pinot Noir
- Atarangi 2017 Martinborough Pinot Noir
- Neudorf Tom’s Block 2017 Moutere Nelson Pinot Noir
- Pegasus Bay Prima Donna 2017 Waipara Pinot Noir
- Wild Earth 2017 Central Otago 2017 Pinot Noir
Wine tasting at MWFS is usually accompanied by tasting platters featuring cheese, and charcuterie, crackers, and bread from our local baker, always delicious! The wines were presented and tasted blind in two flights: first the six Chardonnays and then the four Pinot Noirs.
Following each flight members were asked to vote on their favourite and second favourite wines of the flight together with any comments. The Villa Maria Keltern Hawkes Bay Chardonnay was the clear first flight favourite, and this was followed by the Neudorf Moutere Nelson Chardonnay.
Among the Pinot Noirs the Neudorf Tom’s Block Moutere Nelson Pinot Noir took line honours followed by the Pegasus Bay Prima Donna Waipara Pinot Noir.
What follows are my personal impressions of the wines. The Chardonnays were all elegant, restrained with quiet power and bright acidity, not as overtly rich and powerful as some vintages reflecting I suspect slightly earlier picking.
Kumeu River Mates 2017 Kumeu Auckland Chardonnay
The Kumeu River Estate flagship, whole bunch-pressed, fermented with wild yeasts, full malo, and aged in French oak with about a third new. Pale gold in the glass with aromas of grapefruit, melon toasted nuts and distinct mealy tones, just a hint of flinty reduction. On the palate still quite tight with grapefruit and lemon curd fruit and a touch of butterscotch with a firm acid spine and a long dry mineral finish. Despite eight years already in the bottle I felt this wine has not yet come completely to life.
Villa Maria Keltern 2017 Hawkes Bay Chardonnay
From the red-metal soils of Maraekakaho this Villa Maria flagship Chardonnay marked a distinct change in assemblage with the Corton-Charlemagne clone 548 becoming predominant, contributing both finesse and tension. Fruit was picked before the March rains. Pale lemon in the glass, the nose presented with a distinct struck match minerality, opening up to citrus zest, cashew and oatmeal. On the palate very focused and linear with a slightly-creamy texture underpinned by vibrant acidity with lemon curd cashew and toasty oak flavours and a long savoury finish of oystershell and crushed almonds.
Elephant Hill Salome 2017 Hawkes Bay Chardonnay
The Elephant Hill flagship Chardonnay, only 111 cases produced, from the coastal Te Awanga and red metal Bridge Pa vineyards. Pale lemon in the glass with some smoky reduction and a distinctive sea spray edge to the grapefruit pith, apple and peach aromas. On the plate quite a lush almost crème fraiche texture with chalky minerality, citrus and brioche flavours, and a long, layered powerful finish.
Te Mata Elston 2017 Hawkes Bay Chardonnay
Te Mata’s flagship Chardonnay named after Elston Hall in Nottinghamshire, wild-fermented in barrel, with full malo and aged in French oak 30% new. Pale lemon in the glass, a whiff of reduction preceded aromas of white stone fruits, Meyer lemon and oak. Medium-bodied with bright acidity, citrus and toasted nut flavours and some vanilla oak overlaying a mineral spine, finishing quite long but just fractionally too oaky for my preference.
Neudorf Moutere 2017 Nelson Chardonnay
Produced from Mendoza vines on Neudorf’s organically farmed Home Block in Upper Moutere on gravel laced clay soils, this was my personal favourite of the night. Pale lemon in the glass the wine presented with fragrant Meyer lemon scent overlaying some peach and nectarine aromas, hints of cashew and subtle oak spice. On the palate the creamy entry gives way to tingling acidity and flavours of citrus, stone fruit and nutty oak that slowly increase in intensity. The finish is focussed, crip and long with a slightly saline minerality.
Carrick Bannockburn Otago 2017 Chardonnay
From high-altitude, glacially derived soils and organic grapes, this was not the Carrick flagship, and lacked the power and complexity of their Cairnmuir Terraces EBM Chardonnay. Presented light green-tinged lemon in the glass, with white peach, citrus blossom and toasted nut aromas. On the palate, creamy and smooth-textured with a surprisingly gentle acidity and flavours of white peach and ripe grapefruit and a slightly buttery edge , finish dry and clean but lacking the complexity of the other wines tasted.
Atarangi 2017 Martinborough Pinot Noir
One of New Zealand’s greatest Pinot Noirs and indeed greatest wines, produced from low-yielding vines up to 40 years old, grown on various sites on the stony Martinborough Terrace, with the Abel clone featuring prominently. Fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged for eleven months in French oak, 35% new. Bright light ruby in the glass with distinct aromas of dark cherry, bramble, pot-pourri and sous-bois. On the palate fine silky tannins and fresh acidity frame flavours of dark cherry, plum, spice and forest floor. The finish is long, elegant and structured and with a sous-bois complexity it will age forever!
Neudorf Tom’s Block 2017 Moutere Nelson Pinot Noir. A “value purchase” made on a visit to the winery, this is not Neudorf’s flagship Pinot Noir but offers an accessible introduction to the Neudorf style. From certified organic fruit on Moutere’s gravel laced clays, the grapes were fermented with wid yeasts and the wine aged ten months in French oak, 20% new. Light ruby in the glass, the wine presents with savoury aromas of mushroom, and forest floor overlaying cherry, plum and spice. On the palate cherry spice and toasted nut flavours with a herbal complexity, lovely fine chalky tannins and a lingering spicy finish, this is drinking perfectly now but still has a few years ahead.
Pegasus Bay Prima Donna 2017 Waipara Pinot Noir
The premium Pinot Noir label for Pegasus Bay vinified using “traditional Burgundian methods” including whole bunch fermentation, aging in French oak, Darker ruby in the glass, opening with aromas of dark cherry, forest floor and pot-pourri, and a slightly feral edge. On the palate silky fine tannins frame the rich dark cherry and plum fruit core, with slight a herbal lift and an animal edge that felt to me faintly like the sticking plaster tongue of a bit of Brett which detracted from the overall wine quality. I should note that while a number of members commented on and apparently enjoyed the slightly feral animal note, I was alone in my attribution of the cause.
Wild Earth 2017 Central Otago 2017 Pinot Noir
Sourced from Bannockburn vineyards in Central Otago, hand-picked and matured for a year in French oak casks 27% new. Full ruby in the glass, presenting with fragrant cherry, berry and forest floor aromas with a hint of thyme. On the palate brooding cherry, plum and spice flavours, with medium acidity, fine supple tannins and a juicy, long and harmonious finish. Drinking beautifully now, probably at or near its peak.
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