An introduction to the wines of Vancouver Island’s Cowichan Valley

The first wine tasted was a 2022 Pinot Blanc. Lemon straw in the glass, gentle apple and stone fruit aromatics, on the palate it was crisp but faintly rustic.

I particularly enjoyed what may not be an entirely typical valley Ortega, here Cherry Point’s 2023. Lightly golden lemon in the glass, it had an intensely saline minerality on the nose with some grapefruit notes. On the palate the grapefruit flavours combined with that same salinity and a hint of apricot compote, with a long savoury finish.

We followed with a 2022 Pinot Noir, pale, translucent ruby in the glass with cherry and raspberry aromas and a faint whiff of forest floor. On the palate light-bodied with cherry fruit and forest floor flavours, soft tannins, and a medium length finish.

Finally, (as I omit to comment on the port-styled blackberry wine) the interesting Lagrimas Negras 2019. Made from 50% old vine Castel (Kadarka) which originated in Portugal and 50 % old vine Agria (a Hungarian cross developed in 1964 from other obscure Hungarian varieties and now a not uncommon blending partner in the Hungarian “Bulls Blood”, it was inky purple in the glass with berry fruit and iron aromas. On the palate, quite rich, full bodied blackberry and plum fruit with a firm tannic finish.

We proceeded next to the impressive tasting room of Blue Grouse where we had a seated tasting of three wines accompanied by charcuterie. The Blue Grouse Estate rose from the ashes of the failed government funded Duncan project in the 1980’s which tested the region for grape growing. Dr Hans Kiltz and his wife purchased the land from this project in 1988 and discovered some of the experimental vines growing on it, from which they made a varietal selection of those most likely to succeed. In the early 90s they imported vines from Germany and France including Pinot Noir and made their first wines. In 2012 the Brunner family purchased the property and in 2015 opened the new winery and tasting room.

I provide tasting notes for the three wines provided for the tasting together with two others:  the 2022 Ortega which I purchased at a bottle store later, and the 2021 Reserve Pinot Noir of which I purchased a glass at the tasting.

First, the 2024 Pinot Gris, light lemon straw in the glass with pear, yellow apple and some wet stone aromas. On the palate, medium-bodied, dry, and nicely weighted but still fresh pear and apple flavours with good length.

The 2022 Ortega (a mid 20th century cross between Muller Thurgau and Siegerrebe) was made from optimally ripe grapes fermented in stainless and with some lees aging to add texture and complexity. Pale straw in the glass, apple and citrus aromas and a slight whiff of reduction. On the palate, quite fresh and crisp with grapefruit pith and apple flavours, a hint of salinity and a touch of spice, medium length but not completely harmonious to my palate.

The 2024 Rose was made from 65% Pinot Noir along with 12% Gamay, 15% Pinot Gris and 10% Chardonnay, each variety harvested and fermented separately, with fermentation and aging in a mix of stainless, old oak and concrete tanks and a partial malo. This unusual rose blend was light salmon in the glass, with bright aromatics of red berries, citrus zest and some red apple. On the palate, fresh and dry with crisp berry and citrus flavours and a lovely creamy texture, medium length, a great summer wine.

The 2023 Pinot Noir was light ruby in the glass with cherry, cranberry and some floral aromatics and a touch of pepper and clove spice. On the palate quite light-bodied, with juicy red cherry, forest floor and brown spice flavours, silky tannins and medium length.

Some of my delightful tour companions.  

The 2021 Reserve Pinot Noir made from old vines (all Dijon clones) in a particularly hot ripening season was bright medium ruby in the glass and presented with a distinct cherry, spice and violets nose. On the palate, red cherry and plum flavours were accompanied by some mature notes of forest floor, tobacco and a slightly herbal note, with silky tannins and a long finish.

Our last stop was the newly constructed and extensive cellar door of Unsworth Vineyards. This proved something of a masterclass in the use of PiWis in the valley which is a key element in their sustainability ethos.

The 2023 Auxerrois, a variety common in Alsace, was light straw in the glass and presented aromas of baked apple and a hint of honeysuckle. On the palate generous fruit flavours of pear, baked apple and citrus zest, and a little spice were underpinned by crisp acidity, a trace of residual sugar and a smooth, lingering finish.

The 2023 Rose was made from Pinot Noir fermented in stainless with 6-8 hours on skins. Light salmon in the glass with watermelon, strawberry and citrus aromas. On the palate, dry and refreshing with berry, rhubarb and apple flavours and a slightly herbal edge.

The 2023 Allegro introduces the PiWis and is made from a blend of Petit Milo and Sauvignette, elsewhere known as Epicure. The pink-skinned Petit Milo, produced by Swiss geneticist and breeder Valentin Blattner, is derived from Cabernet Sauvignon with material from non-vinifera American and Asian grape species that make it more suitable for maritime climates. The green skinned Sauvignette is another Blattner PiWi derived from crossing Cabernet Sauvignon with the hybrid Cabernet Blanc, itself derived from crossing Cabernet Sauvignon with yet another hybrid, Regent. Regent , in turn, was created in Germany by crossing Diana, a Sylvaner and Muller Thurgau cross with an earlier hybrid Chambourcin, an interspecific variety of unknown vinifera parentage. The grapes were whole-cluster pressed and the juice stainless fermented. Straw lemon in the glass, with aromas of peach, green mango and yellow flowers, the wine had a bold mouth filling entry of sweet ripe peach and green edged tropical fruits and a touch of kaffir lime. Definitely some residual sugar but still good freshness. However, the flavours fell off a bit sharply.

The 2023 Symphony was another PiWi tour de force. This intensely ruby purple wine is a blend of three PiWis unique to Vancouver Island: Cabernet Libre, Labelle and Corivese. Cabernet Libre is another Blattner variety based on Cabernet Sauvignon with Asian and American grape genetic material to make it more disease resistant and able to ripen in cooler climates. Labelle is a local Blattner cross of Cabernet Foch and a disease resistant variety produced from Asian and American grape species for the sole purpose of contributing desirable genetic material. Cabernet Foch in turn is a cross between the noble variety Cabernet Sauvignon and the Alsatian hybrid Marechai Foch which probably stems from Goldriesling and American Riparia/Rupestris grapes. Corivese is yet another local Blattner PiWi on which I can find no information of its vinifera parent, only that it has a high vinifera percentage.

 The wine presents with notable aromas of cassis, blackberry, black pepper spice and tobacco. On the palate it is quite rich and full-bodied with spicy red and black fruit and a firm tannic backbone and a medium length finish but with the tannins slightly drying.