Encountering the wines and wineries of the Okanagan Valley (Part 1).

When I decided to take advantage of relatively competitive fares on Air New Zealand to visit friends in Canada I vaguely recalled from my WSET studies that the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia had some exciting wines. The plane went to Vancouver BC, and my friends were in Calgary, Alberta so I planned a short stop in Kelowna, the entry point and centre of the beautiful Okanagan Lake region. I’d identified a few “must visit”wineries from some quick internet research but things really fell into place when I mentioned my visit to Martinborough winemaker Paul Mason, who quickly put me in touch with Pete Wilkins, a Kiwi viticulturist playing a major role in establishing some of the Okanagan vineyards. The world of wine growing and wine making is incredibly connected and I continue to be thrilled by the exceptional level of cooperation and hospitality demonstrated by these wonderful people. Pete went above and beyond to provide me with a sublime introduction to some wonderful wines and stunning winery visitor complexes.

I visited five wineries and the Kiwi influence was widely evident. To do justice to all five wineries, I have decided to split my account into two parts. Here, I provide a short introduction to the Okanagan Valley and describe my visits to Mission Hill Estate and Tantalus Estate. The following blog will cover my visits to Martins Lane, Quails Gate and Cedar Creek.

The Okanagan valley in south-central British Columbia is home to a flourishing young premium-wine industry. Vinifera grapes have been grown in the region for some decades but prior to 1990 most of the vineyards were planted in French hybrid and V. labrusca varieties, which were more disease resistant and higher producing than the vinifera varieties necessary for premium wine production. By the late 1980s it was evident that this had to change to establish an industry that could compete internationally, and this recognition drove a government supported replanting program that saw nearly all plantings converted to premium vinifera varieties. New vineyards have also been established, some converted from orchards and today the total area under vineyard is over 2000 hectares

There is considerable variation in soils within the valley. The critical elements of soil formation in the region include the following:

1)    Two distinct underlying bedrocks East and West separated by the complex fault network in and around the lake known as the Okanagan Fault. On the East, the Okanagan Highlands comprising Monashee gneiss were uplifted during the Cretaceous period and on the West, Jurassic granites and Eocene volcanic sediments.

2)    Pleistocene glacial advances eroded underlying bedrocks, redistributed materials and by blocking river valleys with ice, accelerated the formation of elegant fluvial fans, while periodic formation and breaching of ice plugs built glacial sediments along the valley floor. Many of the wineries around Kelowna are established on the fluvial fans, with finer deeper components on the lower slopes and shallower rockier components higher up.

The Okanagan has a semi-arid continental climate with hot summers, cold winters and low rainfall, the latter due to location in the shadow of the coastal range. Relatively cool night-time temperatures assist even ripening, allowing phenolic ripeness to keep pace with sugar development and ensuring necessary acid retention. Most vineyards are within sight of the large and deep lake which exerts a cooling effect during summer days and can moderate sudden cool changes with gentle warming effects during the cold months. There is significant variation north to south with the north cooler, the south both hotter, and more arid.

Within these broad descriptions of geology and climate are significant local variations, even within the same vineyard – differences in soil types, slope and aspect, proximity to the lake and so forth enabling production of terroir driven wines that profoundly express these differences. Soil variations include depth to bedrock or to root growth restriction, drainage, mineral content and pH, while daily temperature variations within an area as small as one hectare can be as much as 8 degrees C. Wind exposure has multiple effects, in addition to either warming or cooling, it thickens up skins, increasing colour, flavour and aroma concentration.

Global warming is also exerting its now well-known challenges of climate change. While an overall warming pattern may provide some benefits – extending the growing season and potentially reducing the exposure to frost during budding, unpredictable extreme weather events are now part of the package, featuring both unusually severe cold snaps and unusual heat waves. There were significant losses in 2023 yields due to a cold snap and this was followed in January 2024 by an even more extreme and prolonged deep frost that saw temperatures plunge to as much as -27 degrees C for two full days, devastating vineyards with 45% of the vines suffering long-term damage and 22% needing complete replacement. Wildfires caused by lightning strikes during summer storms can also wreak havoc.

Sustainable viticulture was a prominent theme of my discussions with Pete and the various winemakers and teams I met during the day. I saw extensive use of composting, cover crops and even biodynamic preparations without owners necessarily seeking organic or biodynamic certification.

Sticky tape in the vineyard traps leafhoppers and reduces numbers without sprays

Mission Hill Estate.

The original plan was to visit this estate immediately after arrival in Kelowna last Friday afternoon but disruption to my travel saw my visit adjusted to two parts with an early tour of the magnificent complex early on Saturday morning before opening, and later in the afternoon a tasting of the flagship wines.

The original “Golden Valley” winery was established on West Kelowna’s Mission Hill in 1966 but was struggling when purchased by wine merchant and entrepreneur Anthony von Mandl in 1981 and renamed Mission Hill Estate. Until 1996 wines were made from grapes purchased from surrounding areas. John Simms, a New Zealander and winemaker at Montana joined in 1992 as Chief Winemaker and his work on the Mission Hill 1992 Grand Reserve Barrel Select Chardonnay was rewarded  in 1994 with the London IWSC trophy for Best Chardonnay in the world. This was a pivotal moment both for Mission Hill Estate and for the reputation of Canadian wine in general. Well-known French oenologist Michel Rolland has also consulted to the Estate for some vintages. John retired in 2015 and the current chief winemaker is Taylor Whelan.

In 1996 Mission Hill began to purchase its own vineyards. Today they farm 32 family-owned estate vineyards across the five different growing regions of Okanagan: West Kelowna, East Kelowna, Naramata, Black Sage Bench in Southeast Oliver and Osoyoos. All are certified organic. Beehives, chickens, and composting are ubiquitous.

The massive arched entrance to Mission Hill Estate

In 1996 von Mandl commissioned architect Tom Kundig to design the winery and visitor complex that stands today. Von Mandl’s goal was “to create a sense of place. Somewhere you can step out of the everyday world and into a sanctuary that’s all about the timelessness of wine”. Construction commenced in 1997 and was finally completed in 2002. There are several prominent features of this magnificent complex. Entrance to the Estate is through an imposing keystone arch consisting of four pillars carved from one giant three-ton block of limestone held up by a single keystone featuring the von Mandl family crest that was gifted to them by Austrian royalty. The most imposing feature is the stone bell tower with four large bronze bells that were cast in France and ring every half hour. The winery and award-winning restaurant architecture is similarly impressive, particularly the barrel room with natural light provided solely from an oculus so the impression when inside is of being in a large wine barrel. The private cellar includes a feature wall displaying a wide range of ancient wine vessels. It is impossible to do the grand architecture and family symbolism justice in this short blog, but the fact that Mission Hill Estate is the sole Canadian winery represented among great vineyard experiences of the world is testimony to my understatement.

Wines are grouped into three levels: the Reserve Collection being the entry level, the Terroir Collection featuring a hand selection of the top 3% of grapes from specific vineyard sites, and the Legacy Collection featuring highly distinctive wines with extended barrel and bottle aging from the top 1% of grapes in the best vintages. Our tasting session at the end of a long day did not allow for a full survey of each level but I was privileged to taste the following wines from the Legacy Collection.

First up, the 2022 Perpetua Chardonnay.  Made from Dijon clones harvested from four blocks of the Border Vista vineyard located in the southerly Osoyoos region (72%) the remainder from the Naramata Bench, the wine is presented in a bottle with a distinctively extravagant metal label. Fermented and aged in a mix of French oak barriques (18% new), puncheons (10% new) and concrete egg (5%), the wine is light lemon in the glass with a faint green tinge. A whiff of flinty reduction gives way to distinct citrus aromas, with a hint of yellow apple and white peach. On the palate, the wine is rich but fresh, nicely balanced, with ripe grapefruit running from entry to the fine finish, accented by some herbal and almond notes.

Second, the 2020 Compendium, a left-bank styled Bordeaux blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot sourced from designated blocks within vineyard estates in Osoyoos and Oliver. The 2020 vintage saw some challenging early conditions followed by a settled and warm growing and ripening period. The wine was aged for 19 months in French oak. Ruby purple in the glass, this delicious wine leads with distinct aromas of cassis, blackberry, licorice and a hint of cedar. On the palate, rich and plush blackberry, blackcurrant and Doris plum fruit flavours are framed with fine-grained tannins. The finish is long and harmonious. This wine is drinking well but still has a decade ahead of it.

Finally, the flagship Oculus, a more right-bank styled Bordeaux blend of 49% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot, from the Osoyoos (90%) and Oliver (10%) vineyards. The optically sorted grapes undergo an extended maceration in a mix of oak and concrete fermenters before 19 months aging in French oak and two years in bottle before release. Deep ruby purple in the glass, red, blue and black fruit aroma were present with notable Doris plum, dark cherry, cassis and blueberry notes with a hint of chocolate reminding me very much of the style of Waiheke New Zealand’s Destiny Bay. Plush, particularly on the mid-palate with dark berry fruits and chocolate flavours supported by firm but fine-grained tannins and a nice lift of freshness and a hint of ripe red pepper on the long finish, from the Cabernet Franc. Approachable now but crying out for further aging, a wine built for the long haul.

Tantalus Vineyard

My first visit of the day was to Tantalus Vineyard where we were privileged to be hosted by General Manager and Winemaker Dave Paterson. Dave was born in Vancouver but raised in New Zealand, and after completing a viticulture degree at Lincoln embarked on a global winemaking career at some iconic wineries commencing with Neudorf in Nelson and progressing in Oregon, Burgundy and South Australia’s Henschke before joining Tantalus as winemaker in 2009. He became GM in 2016.

General Manager and Chief Winemaker at Tantalus, NZ raised Dave Paterson.

Tantalus has a long history, and the property originally known as Pioneer Vineyard was first planted in Vitis Lambrusca grapes in 1927. It was acquired in 1940 by Marin Dulik and produced both table grapes and wine. In 1978 Marik’s son Den Dulik began to plant vinifera grapes including the Clone 21 Riesling from St Urbanshof that now forms the backbone of the famous Tantalus Riesling, Chardonnay and some clone 93 Pinot Noir from Germany which is now used for the Blanc de Noir. Dulik’s daughter Susan began selling wines under the Pinot Reach label in 1997. Eric Savics acquired the property in 2004 having been impressed by its potential, renamed it Tantalus. Savics retained and expanded the original Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir plantings but removed other varieties, adding superior clones in the process. The 2005 vintage firmly placed Tantalus wines on the map particularly for Riesling and the 2022 Old Vine Riesling was awarded 95 points by Decanter in 2024.

Situated in South-east Kelowna on soils of silt overlaying gravels, the vineyard today comprises 75 acres with 50 acres under vine with nine separate blocks. The vineyard is entirely tended by hand and is a benchmark in sustainability, with composting, no-till cover crops, use of compost teas and microbial sprays, nesting boxes for beneficial birds and bats, and beehives pervasive. Bio-diversity is further encouraged by preservation of a 10-acre natural dry-land forest in the centre of the vineyard.

Overlooking the Tantalus vineyard behind the LEED certified winery & cellar door

The modern winery, tasting room and restaurant was established in 2010 and is British Columbia’s first and only LEED (leadership in environment and energy design) certified winery. It includes full on-site waste-water treatment since 2009 and more recently a 50KW solar power system.  

Winemaking is terroir-focused with a minimal intervention approach. Grapes are hand harvested and selected at optimal ripeness and fermented in small batches with either native or inoculated yeasts. I was thrilled to have opportunity to taste batches from the current vintage at various stages of progression before proceeding to an outstanding and comprehensive guided tasting with Dave immediately afterwards.

Inside the Tantalus winery in the middle of the busy harvest period

2022 Blanc de Noirs.

A deliciously refreshing method champenoise from 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Pinot Meunier, pale gold in the glass with a complex nose of apple, grapefruit, a hint of strawberry and some autolytic notes of toast and nuts. The mousse is fine and persistent, the palate elegant and fresh but full, citrus and apple notes dominate the entry but a definite note of strawberry rises on the long crisp finish.

2022 Old Vine Riesling.

From the original 1978 clone 21 Riesling, made in a Grosses Gewachs style, with 7 months on lees and 2 years in bottle before release, this wine was a delight. Lime straw in the glass, it presents with some white flowers, and a wet-stone minerality on the nose overlaying kaffir lime leaf. The palate is focussed and precise with that distinctive wet-stone minerality and the same kaffir lime leaf lifting the long dry finish.

2023 Chardonnay

Grapes harvested from vines planted in 1995, 2006 and 2013, whole bunch pressed, barrel fermented with a partial malolactic conversion and 10 months on lees in the same barrels (20-30% new). Light lemon gold in the glass. Yellow apple, white peach, grapefruit pith and a touch of popcorn on the nose. On the palate nicely balanced and quite textural with generous lemon curd, apple crumble and cashew flavours and a long finish, a wine built to age.

2013 Chardonnay

Similar winemaking as for the 2023, this wine provides the evidence for my age worthy conclusion. Lemon gold in the glass, with peach pie and apple aromas, the palate was rich with persistent caramelised yellow apple flavours and a clean satisfying finish.

2022 Pinot Noir

40% whole bunches, wild ferment, foot trodden, unlined and unfiltered. Light ruby in the glass with red cherry, forest floor and pot-pourri aromas. The palate was still quite firm, with fine tannins framing the cherry fruit and sous-bois flavours, and a distinct minerality on the long finish.