Bijou Estate: A Quiet Jewel on the Ruamahanga Terrace

A Small Vineyard with a Singular Voice

Tucked into the elevated river terraces north of Masterton, Bijou Estate is one of those Wairarapa vineyards that many locals have driven past without ever realising what sits just a short turn off the main road. It is small, quiet, and resolutely hands‑on—an expression of one woman’s long, determined project rather than a commercial brand chasing scale.

I first visited Bijou through an introduction from Rob at Ranginui Retreat, whose enthusiasm for the estate’s story prompted me to take a closer look. What I found was not a flashy operation or a marketing‑driven label, but a genuine boutique vineyard shaped by the personality, discipline and curiosity of its owner, Alex Johnston.

Alex’s background is unusual for a winegrower: four decades in medical science, specialising in haematology, with additional experience in microbiology and biochemistry. That scientific grounding shows in her approach to viticulture—methodical, observant and quietly uncompromising. Bijou Estate began in the late 1990s, during the surge of new plantings that followed Marlborough’s rise, but unlike many ventures of that era, it has remained deliberately small and focused. Today the vineyard covers six acres planted to Pinot Gris, Viognier, Merlot and Gewürztraminer, farmed with a minimalist philosophy and an emphasis on aromatics.

I tasted through the current releases with Alex before walking the vineyard with her, and while the wines are not aiming to compete with the region’s headline producers, they offer something distinctive: clean, varietal expressions of lesser‑seen grapes in the Wairarapa, made with the steady hand of veteran winemaker Karl Johner. They are honest wines—unpretentious, thoughtfully grown, and reflective of the site’s warm, stony terrace above the Ruamahanga River. For visitors staying at Ranginui Retreat or travellers exploring the northern Wairarapa, Bijou offers a glimpse into the kind of small‑scale, personal winegrowing that helped shape the region before the rise of larger brands.

Alex’s Story: From Haematology to the Vineyard

What follows is Alex’s story, tracing her journey from medical laboratories to vineyard rows, the evolution of Bijou Estate, and her reflections on wine, science and the pleasures of a well‑made aromatic.

“My interest in wine began gradually. After emigrating to Canada in 1970, I found that wine played a much bigger role in social occasions there, perhaps reflecting the influence of European immigrant communities. It soon became my preferred drink. Later, living in England and travelling through Europe, wine became part of everyday life. When I returned to New Zealand in the mid‑1970s, the local selection was limited and most wine was imported, but the seed of curiosity had already been planted.

For more than four decades my professional life was in hospital laboratories in New Zealand, Canada and England. I specialised in haematology, which seems an unlikely background for entering the viticulture industry. But my experience in microbiology and biochemistry turned out to be surprisingly useful—particularly when it came to understanding vine pests, diseases and soil chemistry.

By the mid‑1990s, hospitality was expanding and attitudes toward wine and social drinking were changing. Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc had made its mark internationally, and vineyards were springing up everywhere. After some changes in my personal life, I decided to buy a suitable lifestyle block and join the rush into viticulture while continuing my medical career. That was the beginning of Bijou Estate—bijou meaning “jewel” in French.

Six flat acres of the 13‑acre property became the vineyard. I planted Pinot Gris in 1998, followed over the next three years by Viognier, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc—around 9,000 vines in total. It quickly became clear that I needed more knowledge, so I enrolled in the two‑year viticulture course at the Eastern Institute of Technology in Hawke’s Bay. To ensure no spare moment went unused, my partner suggested we also write a book. Between full‑time laboratory work, vineyard duties and research, life was frenetic. After ten years of juggling two careers—plus some property development along the way—retirement from the laboratory finally beckoned.

Bijou Estate sits 8 km north of Masterton, the most northerly vineyard in the valley, on an elevated rocky river terrace near the Ruamahanga River. There is no frost protection, but the microclimate created by the elevation and proximity to the river has prevented damage from late spring frosts. When phylloxera arrived around 2014, I took the opportunity to change some varieties, replacing Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc with Merlot and Gewürztraminer. Pinot Gris and Viognier remained. I take a minimalist approach in the vineyard and use organic sprays where possible. Casual labour helps with the big seasonal jobs—pruning, leaf plucking, fruit thinning, trimming, netting and harvest—but everything else falls to me.

For winemaking, it made sense to seek out the best expertise available, especially as not all wineries can process very small quantities of fruit. Karl Johner, who has vineyards in southern Germany and east of Carterton, has more than 50 years of experience. I’ve been fortunate to have his winemaking skills behind Bijou Estate wines since 2005. Producing single‑vineyard, single‑vintage wines from lesser‑known varieties has always been my aim. I don’t claim to know much about winemaking—or even about wine in a technical sense—but I do know what I like: a dry wine with an enticing nose, good flavour, pleasing texture and plenty of length. A good aromatic fits the bill.

Travel has always been a big part of my life, and being part of the wine industry has added another dimension to those experiences. Enjoying a glass of wine is often about the setting, the company and perhaps the food—it’s the whole package. Some memorable moments include a lodge in the Okavango, a bar in St Petersburg, local history in Cuba, a rural hotel in Mongolia and a sojourn in southern India.

If I had to choose a last glass, it would definitely be a white—probably an aromatic. I love the anticipation of what the nose will deliver: satisfaction or disappointment. Perhaps an Alsace Gewürztraminer, or Bijou Estate Gewürztraminer 2021. The latter because it reminds me that the ambitious project I began 30 years ago has succeeded: interesting, finely crafted boutique wines for people who enjoy something a little different.

I prefer to sell directly, as it benefits the customer. The only retail outlet is Martinborough Wine Merchants, but I’m happy to courier wine anywhere in the country. I can be contacted at alex.johnston@xtra.co.nz or 027 441 0345.”

Tasting the Wines